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I could see a wave coming in that was just begging someone to ride it. I watched her for a minute and then we both turned around and got ready to catch the wave. I waited, waited, then jumped up and let it take me. It was like flying. Spray from the wave hit me but I didn't care. I concentrated on keeping my balance, making sure my feet had a good grip on the board and adjusting to follow the flow. I wasn't going to try anything fancy. I glanced over and saw that Surfer Babe—until I knew her name, I would call her Surfer Babe—was up as well. She looked sure and easy on her board, as though she'd been doing this all her life. There was no tension in her body, as I knew there was in mine. I was willing to bet she was smiling, and if she could have closed her eyes and taken the wave in that way, she would have. I did pretty well until something bumped my board and I lost my train of thought. I shifted and tried to compensate, and ended up going under the water. I came up laughing.. It had been November when he arrived and soon the Colorado winter began to take its toll on him. When he didn't cave, the commander started to limit his food to a thousand calories a day and everything had to be refrigerated for twenty-four hours before Jamie got it. The commander also took away any seasonings like salt or sugar or anything else that might bring any pleasure while you were eating.Thanksgiving dinner that year was cold stewed tomatoes and five slices of white bread, Christmas was a box of cornflakes and five slices of white bread no milk but all the water that a man could drink. This had an effect; Jamie dropped weight until he only weighed 94 lbs. The cold steel floor made the soles of his feet get thick and dry until they cracked and bled with every step. Jamie never broke.Then one day an army doctor came to visit, he was more then a little shocked at Jamie's condition and ordered him a plate from the mess hall right away. Jamie's food was good for the next two days.
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